
Previously known as the province of Sanuki, the modern-day prefecture of Kagawa is known to be Japan’s smallest prefecture. There was a time when Kagawa was part of neighboring Ehime prefecture, but the two are now separate and occupy their respective corners on the north of the island of Shikoku. Joining both prefectures to the south are Kochi and Tokushima. Kagawa is connected to the island of Honshu via Okayama through the Great Seto bridge. If you are coming from Honshu via rail, a connection in Okayama is possible all the way to Kagawa’s capital Takamatsu via JR’s Rapid Marine Liner or the Seto Ohashi train.



The only prefecture I had visited on Shikoku prior to this trip was Ehime, when I dropped by to visit a friend there. This was during my cheapo low cost airline heydays, though, so I must have flown to get there. For this trip, I was in possession of the Sanyo Sanin Area Pass, which covers the sprawl between Fukuoka’s Hakata station in Kyushu and passing through the entirety of Chugoku before reaching as far as Osaka and Kyoto in Kansai. Kagawa’s Takamatsu is also included in the pass, the only prefecture in Shikoku. Since it was included anyway, I decided to include it in the itinerary.

From Fukuoka, it takes around an hour and 45 minutes with the Sanyo shinkansen to reach Okayama station. Add another 55 minutes on the Rapid Marine Liner to cross the sea and end up in Takamatsu. Both trains are included in the JR Sanyo Sanin Area Pass. Since it took almost three hours to get there and another three hours to get back to Fukuoka, my original itinerary which included another hour of ferry ride to a cave on an island with colorful yokai statues, I decided to drop it and just focus on Takamatsu’s main attraction, which happens to be Ritsurin Garden.

Ritsurin was worth it. It was so worth it that I also ended up scrapping plans to go to Takamatsu’s castle ruins as well as the museum within the vicinity. Once you arrive at Takamatsu station, transfer to the local Kotoku line. One way costs JPY240 (~PHP90) and the same amount heading back. The trip lasts around five minutes and you have the option to get off at either Ritsurin or Ritsurin north entrance. Since the garden is huge, take a pick as to where you want to start. The admission fee is JPY410 (~PHP160) which surprised me a bit because I thought it was supposed to be free. But hey, that amount is so worth it. I’d even pay more!
Ritsurin has its own free public WiFi, which is fast and with good coverage all throughout the garden. There are toilets aplenty and despite the multitude of tourists, there is always an empty spot somewhere that you can claim as your own. The early blooming sakura provided a dash of white and pink among the predominantly green foliage. That peek into Japan’s spring colors just let me imagine how colorful this place would be once spring is in full bloom! Colorful foliage aside, Ritsurin also has no shortage of bodies of water, from mini lakes to streams and rivers. You can even ride a boat, although I forgot to inquire how much.
The highlight for me was the bridge area on the southwestern part of the garden. There is a hill there overlooking the lake and the bridge which is the designated spot for selfies. The ascent is not difficult at all and most people stay on the peak for around five minutes before heading back down. That part of the lake is home to plenty of koi, which you can watch as you relax on the benches at the riverbanks. A small store selling food and drinks is strategically placed in that area as well. Overall, it is a pleasant spot, tranquil despite the crowds, even though a bit chilly this time of the year.



As to why Ritsurin did not end up as one of Japan’s Three Great Gardens is anybody’s guess. I’ve also been to neighboring Okayama’s Korakuen Garden the previous day. Now that one is included on that list, and yet somehow I was more awestruck with Ritsurin. In any case, Kagawa is not really on most tourists’ itineraries but should you end up visiting the island of Shikoku and you find yourself in Kagawa, do NOT skip Ritsurin. In anything, make it your primary destination there. I swear, you won’t regret it.
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